The murky waters of Matheko

Matheko is home to about 5,000 Pondo people. It's about half an hour's drive from Lusikisiki, down a pretty decent dirt road. The headman of the village is a woman, Nontsapho Mathanda. There is no running water or electricity in the village so she has to send her mobile phone by taxi to town to get charged. It costs R19 for a round-trip and R5 for the charging, a total of R24 ($3).


Mathanda and one of her traditional councillors show me the water supply for Matheko village. The water bubbles up from an underground source, and there are many watering holes like these dotted around the veld.


Here Mathanda demonstrates how this water is used for drinking. She tries to convince me to try it, but I get a dodgy belly after a haloumi and pesto pita. I'm not sure my middle-class tummy can manage it. I awkwardly decline. She winks at me with a laugh.


Here local women gather water for cooking, washing and bathing.


The headwoman, her councillors and some hangers-on audition for U2's next album.


Headwoman Mathanda relaxes at home. Squint, and you'll be able to read what it says on her vest: ROLE MODEL. Indeed.

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